Sichuan Northern Route: Jiuzhaigou, Songpan and Ruoergai

Northern Sichuan is where the province stops being a basin and starts being high country. This is the route that takes you from the valley systems into lake country and eventually onto open grassland, and it is the best introduction to altitude in Sichuan because it climbs gradually rather than all at once.

It also contains two of the province’s best-known names and one of its least-visited landscapes, which makes it the most efficient northern itinerary for a first trip.

The Shape of the Route

The northern route runs up out of the Chengdu plain following river valleys, then splits into lake country and grassland country before eventually turning back or continuing onward. It is usually driven rather than taken by public transport, because the value is in the country between the towns.

Why It Climbs Well

Unlike the western route, which puts serious elevation gain into a single day, the northern approach gains height steadily over a longer distance. That makes it a better first high-country experience, and a sensible warm-up if you are heading further west afterwards.

The Valley Section

The first part of the route follows river valleys through hill country. This is not the scenic highlight, but it is where the character of the north starts to establish itself: narrower valleys, steeper slopes, different crops, and settlements that sit where the flat land is.

• Terraces and side valleys become increasingly common as you climb.
• Road conditions are generally good on the main corridor, with the usual mountain-road cautions.
• Break the drive. There are towns worth a stop rather than a drive-by.

The Lake Country

This is why most people come north. The valley systems here hold water in a way that produces the clarity the region is known for, and the combination of forest, water and mountain backdrop is genuinely distinctive.

What to Expect

Expect boardwalks and shuttle systems rather than wilderness; these are managed, high-capacity sites. Expect crowds at peak times. And expect the water itself to be worth it regardless — the colour and clarity are not exaggerated in photographs.

Timing Your Visit

• Arrive early. The difference between a first-entry morning and a midday arrival is substantial.
• Allow a full day. Half a day means rushing the best part.
• Check seasonal access. Conditions and opening arrangements vary by season; verify for your dates.
• Consider a second night nearby so you can enter at opening time rather than arriving the same morning.

Photography Notes

The water is most striking on still, overcast-to-bright mornings. Midday sun flattens it slightly. A polarising filter helps, and reflections are best before the wind picks up.

The Historic Town

On the northern route there is a walled town that has become the standard overnight stop and a destination in its own right. Its value is that it gives you somewhere with actual street life to stay, rather than a hotel cluster near a scenic gate.

• Walk the walls for the overview and the evening light.
• Eat locally. Northern Sichuan food here differs noticeably from Chengdu’s.
• Use it as an acclimatisation stop. It sits at a helpful intermediate elevation.
• Stay one night minimum; two if you want the early lake entry and an unhurried town evening.

The Grassland

Further north, the landscape opens into high rolling grassland, and this is the part most itineraries skip. It is worth not skipping.

Why It Is Worth the Extra Distance

The grassland is a completely different landscape from everything else in Sichuan — open, treeless, grazed, and enormous. There is no comparable place in the province, and it is markedly less visited than the lake country.

When to Go

Warmer months are the point. Outside the growing season the grassland is bleak and the value drops considerably. Check conditions before committing to the detour.

What to Do There

• Drive slowly and stop often — the appeal is scale, which does not photograph well from a car window.
• Walk out from the road; even a few hundred metres changes the experience.
• Stay for the light. Late afternoon on open grassland is the best hour of the day here.
• Expect basic facilities. This is remote country.

Practical Logistics

• Transport: a vehicle with driver is the practical way to do this route. Public transport reaches towns, not the country between them.
• Accommodation: book the lake-area night in advance during peak season; the town and grassland options are generally more flexible.
• Altitude: moderate on this route, but noticeable. Hydrate and keep the first evening easy.
• Weather: mountain weather changes fast. Carry layers even in summer.
• Reservations: check whether popular sites need advance booking for your dates.

Combining With the West

The northern route connects naturally to the western route, and doing both in one trip is the classic full-Sichuan itinerary. The advantage of doing north first is acclimatisation: you arrive at the western high passes having already spent nights at moderate elevation.

If you only have time for one, choose north for accessibility and variety, west for drama and scale.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many days does the northern route need?

Three days covers the valley approach, the lake country and the town. Add a fourth for the grassland.

Is the lake country too crowded to enjoy?

It is busy in season, but early entry and a full day make a large difference. The management systems move people efficiently once you are inside.

Is the grassland worth the detour?

Yes, in the warmer months, and particularly if you have already seen the lake country. It is unlike anywhere else in the province.

Can I do this by bus?

You can reach the main towns by bus, but the grassland and the best stops in between require a vehicle.

Is altitude a problem on this route?

Generally manageable. Elevation is moderate and gained gradually, which is why this route suits a first high-country trip.

At a Glance

• Northern Sichuan climbs gradually — the best introduction to altitude in the province.
• Lake country needs a full day and an early start; stay nearby the night before.
• The walled historic town is the right overnight base and a useful acclimatisation stop.
• The grassland is the least-visited highlight and worth a detour in summer.
• A vehicle with driver is the practical way to see the country between towns.
• Pairs naturally with the western route — north first, for acclimatisation.